Drunk and Disorderly

Materials

Rear hook

Daiichi 2461 #1/0 (a 1X-long straight-eye streamer hook); #1-4 for the mini

Front hook

Gamakatsu 61413 jig hook #3/0 (60-degree jig hook); smaller jig hook for the mini

Thread

Black 3/0 Danville Monocord for the bodies; Kevlar or GSP 200, natural, for the deer hair

Rear tail

Gold grizzly Flashabou, a sparse clumpFlash replaces marabou throughout so the fly swims rather than falls.

Rear body

UV gold Polar Chenille, palmered

Rear collar

Sand variant rabbit strip, wrappedNatural/olive: sand or olive variant; white, yellow, black and chartreuse strips for the variants.

Rear wing

One mallard flank feather dyed wood duck gold, laid flat on top

Connection

30-lb nylon-coated wire with one or two 6-8 mm solid plastic beads

Front tail

Gold grizzly Flashabou above the hook point

Front body

Sand variant rabbit strip, three wraps, then UV gold Polar Chenille over the rattle

Rattleoptional

3 mm Pyrex rounded-end fly rattle lashed on top of the front shank

Sides

Two mallard flank feathers dyed wood duck gold, one each side

Front wing

Gold grizzly Flashabou, a clump on top

Front collar

Sand variant rabbit strip, wrapped

Head

Dyed brown deer body hair, three bunches spun on the sloping jig bend and razored into a flat-bellied wedgeDeer hair colour follows the variant.

Eyes

Living Eyes, 1/4 in

Coating

Solarez Flex to seat the eyes, then Solarez Thin or Ultra Thin over the whole head

Steps

1. 1.Clamp the rear hook, dress the shank with Monocord, and tie in a sparse clump of gold grizzly Flashabou at the bend, about one and a half shank lengths long.
2. 2.Tie in the Polar Chenille at the bend and palmer it forward, stroking the fibres back with each turn (a wire brush spares your fingers from the hook point), to about two eye-widths behind the eye. Tie off.
3. 3.Tie in a rabbit strip by its tip in front of the chenille and take two or three wraps with wet fingers to keep the fur swept back. Tie off and trim the hide.
4. 4.Lay one dyed mallard flank feather flat over the top, build a small head, whip finish and cement. The rear section is done.
5. 5.Clamp the jig hook and cover the shank with a cross-hatched base of Monocord so the wire cannot slip.
6. 6.Fold the 30-lb wire through the rear hook eye, slide the plastic beads onto the doubled wire, and lash both legs along the top of the front shank back to the bend with tight wraps; fold the tags forward, bind again and glue. The beads should fill the gap so the joint swings but does not fold.
7. 7.Tie in a clump of gold grizzly Flashabou above the hook point as the front tail.
8. 8.Tie in a rabbit strip at the same point and make three wraps forward; tie off.
9. 9.Tie in the Polar Chenille, set the glass rattle on top of the shank and bind it down hard, then palmer the chenille forward over the rattle to just short of the jig bend and tie off.
10. 10.Tie in one mallard flank feather flat against each side of the body.
11. 11.Tie in a clump of Flashabou on top as the front wing, then another rabbit strip and wrap a collar in front of it. Tie off and whip finish the Monocord.
12. 12.Start the Kevlar or GSP on the sloping front of the jig shank and dress it.
13. 13.Cut, clean and stack a bunch of brown deer body hair, spin it right in front of the collar and pack it back. Spin a second bunch (butt ends trimmed shorter) in front of that, and a final bunch on the down-sloping section just behind the eye. Whip finish at the eye.
14. 14.Shave the belly flat with a double-edge razor, then cut the front face on a forward-leaning slant so the head is a door-stop wedge, deepest at the front and tapering back toward the collar. Cup the top slightly with a curved blade and tidy with scissors.
15. 15.Seat a Living Eye on each side with a dab of flexible UV resin and cure.
16. 16.Coat the whole head in thin UV resin, working it into the hair, and cure it hard. The stiff, flat wedge is what makes the fly plane and dart when it is soaked.

From the tier

• Lynch built it over about eighteen months to swim like the Rapalas of his childhood: the wedge on a jig hook dives on the strip and glides, pauses and kicks sideways on the release. He says the fly is meant to swim, not fall.
• He strips it short and sharp with no rhythm, or uses a "down swat", a hard downward chop of the rod tip, and says it can be worked a million ways; his Pere Marquette and Upper Manistee browns include many over 20 in.
• Charlie Craven: less deer hair makes a version that sinks, more makes it neutral; coat the head generously so it keeps its shape, and the wedge sitting on the sloping jig bend is the whole point.

Hook and hardware

• Straight-eye streamer hook1

  size 1/0 · Daiichi 2461

  Rear hook

  1

• 60-degree jig hook1

  size 3/0 · Gamakatsu 61413

  Front hook

  1

• Nylon-coated wireabout 6 in

  30 lb

  Connection

  about 6 in

• Living Eyes1 pair

  1/4 in

  Eyes

  1 pair

Feathers and fur

• Rabbit stripabout 8 in

  sand variant (or variant colour)

  Rear collarFront bodyFront collar

  about 8 in

• Mallard flank feathers3 feathers

  dyed wood duck gold

  Rear wingSides

  3 feathers

• Deer body hair3 large bunches

  dyed brown (or variant colour)

  Head

  3 large bunches

Synthetics, flash and legs

• Grizzly Flashabou3 clumps

  gold

  Rear tailFront tailFront wing

  3 clumps

• UV Polar Chenilleabout 12 in

  UV gold

  Rear bodyFront body

  about 12 in

Thread and finish

• Monocord1 spool

  black 3/0 · Danville

  Thread

  1 spool

• Kevlar or GSP thread1 spool

  GSP 200, natural

  ThreadHead

  1 spool

• UV resin1 bottle each

  Flex, and Thin or Ultra Thin · Solarez

  CoatingEyes

  1 bottle each

• Supergluea few drops

  Connection

  a few drops

Other

• Solid plastic beads1-2

  6 or 8 mm

  Connection

  1-2

• Glass fly rattleoptional1

  3 mm Pyrex, rounded end

  Rattle

  1