Flies / Streamer
Clouser Minnow (and Flashtail Clouser)
ACurrent Works strips a Flashtail Clouser on sink tips for fresh Betsie and Manistee salmon, and chartreuse/white and pink Clousers are coho standards. In white and gray it doubles as a smelt or alewife imitation for St. Marys Atlantics in late June and July. Fish it with fast strips in the lowest holding water above the lake.
Photo © Quinn for Fly Deal Flies, used with permission · Clouser White Chartreuse
Photo © Quinn for Fly Deal Flies, used with permission · Clouser White
Mike Cline · Public domain · Wikimedia Commons
Mike Cline · Public domain · Wikimedia Commons
- Jan
- Feb
- Mar
- Apr
- May
- Jun
- Jul
- Aug
- Sep
- Oct
- Nov
- Dec
Forage
- Alewife
- Emerald shiner
- Rainbow smelt
- Spottail shiner
Setups
- Streamers
- Swinging flies (spey / switch)
Materials
- Hook
- Mustad 34007 or TMC 811S, sizes 1 to 6 (Clouser ties 1/0 to 8); Ahrex SA210 Bob Clouser Signature is the current signature hook
- Thread
- White Danville Flat Waxed Nylon or Monocord 3/0 (6/0 on small sizes); a second colour to match the back is optional
- Eyes
- Painted lead dumbbell eyes sized to the hook, red with black pupil; bead chain for shallow flatsSet about three hook-eye lengths back from the eye
- Belly
- White bucktail, sparse, two to two-and-a-half shank lengths
- Flash
- Gold or pearl Krystal Flash, 4 to 8 strands doubled, a touch longer than the hair
- Back
- Chartreuse bucktail (pink, gray or all pink for the other colours), same length as the belly
- Head
- Tying thread coated with UV resin or epoxy, as Clouser finishes his
- Flashtailoptional
- Flashtail variant only: 10 to 15 strands of pearl, silver or Mirage Flashabou tied at the bend, extending at least 1/2 in beyond the bucktail
Steps
- 1.Start the thread a third of the way back from the eye and build a short, slightly raised thread bump where the eyes will sit.
- 2.Set the dumbbell eyes on top of the shank about three hook-eye lengths back and lock them with alternating figure-eight wraps, then a few tight posting wraps under the eyes between the shank and the barbell. Add a drop of cement.
- 3.Flashtail version only: before the eyes, tie a small bundle of Flashabou at the bend so it trails well past where the bucktail tips will end.
- 4.Cut a sparse pencil of white bucktail, pull out the short fibres and even the tips lightly by hand, not in a stacker.
- 5.Tie the white bucktail in on top of the shank in front of the eyes with firm wraps, then pull the butts back over the eyes and bind them down behind the eyes so the hair lies flat against the shank and cannot rotate.
- 6.Run the thread forward in touching turns to build a smooth underbody, then whip finish or carry on with the same thread.
- 7.Turn the hook over in the vise so the point is up. This side is now the back of the fly.
- 8.Double the Krystal Flash strands around the thread and tie them in just ahead of the eyes so they lie along the white hair and reach a little past it.
- 9.Tie in the chartreuse bucktail on top of the flash, tips even with the belly, using two loose gathering wraps and then tight ones so the hair stays on top and does not flare.
- 10.Trim the butts on a taper, cover them with a neat cone-shaped head and, if you like, add a band of chartreuse thread at the nose.
- 11.Whip finish and coat the head and the wraps around the eyes with UV resin or epoxy so the materials are locked.
- 12.Check the profile: the fly should be tall and thin, hair sparse enough to see through when wet, with the point riding up.
From the tier
- Bob Clouser's emphasis is construction: when the hair is not locked the materials twist around the shank, so he binds the belly both in front of and behind the eyes and finishes the head hard. Lefty Kreh caught more than sixty species on it.
- Deneki's Alaska guides swing it or strip it steadily with the odd pause, letting the eyes drop the fly between strips; pink over white is their coho colour, chartreuse over white the everyday one.
- Dan Blanton added the long Flashabou tail; Ted Kraimer's Michigan Flashtail is tied on a jig hook with a Polar Dub body, sheep-hair belly and silver fox wing, fished on a floating line with a 9 ft leader in the shallows or a sink tip in heavier current so it hops like a fleeing minnow.
Video: Bob Clouser on How to Tie the Clouser Minnow Steps summarize Clouser's Orvis video recipe as written up by Charlie's Fly Box and Deneki, with the Flashtail addition from Current Works and The Smallmouth Fly Box. Unconfirmed: Bob Popovics is not credited with the Flashtail in any source found; the sources credit Dan Blanton. No Fly Fish Food Flashtail Clouser tutorial page could be located. Also checked against Charlie's Fly Box (2022), Clouser Minnow, Martin Joergensen, Global FlyFisher (2011), Clouser Deep Minnow, Kyle Shea, Deneki Outdoors (2016), The Clouser Minnow - An Oldie but Goodie, Ted Kraimer, Current Works Guide Service, Flashtail Clouser Minnow Pattern Recipe and The Smallmouth Fly Box (2012), The Deep Clouser Minnow - Revisited.
Hook and hardware
Saltwater hook1
size 1 to 6 · Mustad 34007 or TMC 811S
Hook
1
Painted dumbbell eyes1 pair
red with black pupil, sized to hook
Eyes
1 pair
Feathers and fur
Bucktaila pinch
white
Belly
a pinch
Bucktaila pinch
chartreuse (or pink, gray)
Back
a pinch
Synthetics, flash and legs
Krystal Flash4 to 8 strands
gold or pearl
Flash
4 to 8 strands
Flashabouoptional10 to 15 strands
pearl, silver or Mirage
Flashtail
10 to 15 strands
Thread and finish
Flat Waxed Nylon thread1 spool
white, 3/0 · Danville
Thread
1 spool
UV resin or epoxy1
Head
1
Sources