Michigan Flies

Flies / Streamer

Woolly Bugger

A

The most-cited Michigan salmon fly: black, olive and purple buggers for Chinook and coho, 'essential' on the Pere Marquette, swung or dead-drifted into staged fish from September through October, especially in off-color water. A #8 beadhead in black, olive or pink is the standard pink salmon fly on the St. Marys and Carp in September, and #8 to #12 buggers serve brook trout and small browns all season. Downsize and slow down for trout, upsize and add a hot head for salmon.

#2–12BlackOlivePurpleChartreuseWhiteBrown/rustPink (pink salmon)Chartreuse UV Polar Chenille with black schlappen (PM salmon)
What the pattern looks like
Reference photos of the Woolly Bugger tied by others, shared by their photographers. Not our flies; our own product photos replace these as they are shot.

Photo © Quinn for Fly Deal Flies, used with permission · Woolly Bugger Black

Season
Months this pattern is in play across Michigan, derived from what it imitates.
  1. Jan
  2. Feb
  3. Mar
  4. Apr
  5. May
  6. Jun
  7. Jul
  8. Aug
  9. Sep
  10. Oct
  11. Nov
  12. Dec
Imitates

Forage

  • Leech
  • Sculpin (slimy and mottled)
  • Crayfish
  • Dace and other coarse minnows
Fish it for

Setups

  • Streamers
  • Swinging flies (spey / switch)
  • Indicator nymphing
  • Chuck and duck
How it's tied
A
The all-purpose palmered-hackle and marabou streamer: a leech, hellgrammite, sculpin or crayfish depending on colour and how you move it. Our own write-up of the standard tie, checked against the sources below. Recipe by Phil Monahan, Orvis News (tied by Tim Flagler, Tightline Productions) (2017).

Materials

Hook
4X-long streamer hook (Dai-Riki 700, TMC 5263 or similar), sizes 2-12
Thread
6/0 or 140-denier to match the body (brown olive on the Orvis olive tie, black on a black bugger)
Weightoptional
Lead-free wire, .020, 10-15 wraps over the front half of the shankOr a 5/32 in gold bead or cone at the eye. Leave it off for a fly you want to swing or fish under an indicator.
Tail
Marabou blood quill, one plume, about a shank length; wispy tips strippedBlessing's original was black marabou; match the body colour for the variants listed.
Flashoptional
2-3 strands of Flashabou or Krystal Flash each side of the tailPearl or colour-matched; red on black for salmon.
Riboptional
Fine copper or gold Ultra Wire, smallCounter-wrapped to protect the hackle. Flagler uses the tying thread itself as the rib.
Body
Medium chenille (olive on the original; black, purple, chartreuse, white, brown/rust or pink for the variants). The Pere Marquette salmon version uses chartreuse UV Polar Chenille.
Hackle
Saddle hackle, barbs about 1.5 times the gap, palmered from tail to head (black on the original; olive grizzly on the Orvis olive tie; black schlappen on the PM salmon version)
Head
Tying thread, cemented; on the beaded tie a small collar of rusty brown Superfine dubbing behind the bead

Steps

  1. 1.Flatten the barb, slide on the bead if you are using one, and clamp the hook. If you want weight, wrap 10-15 turns of .020 lead-free wire over the front half of the shank and lock it in place with thread.
  2. 2.Start the thread behind the eye or bead and lay a base back to a point above the barb.
  3. 3.Take one marabou blood quill and pinch or strip off the wispy tips so the tail will finish in a fuller, blunter point. Measure it to about a shank length, tie it in above the barb, and bind the butts forward along the whole shank so the body has a smooth, even underbody without a bump at the rear.
  4. 4.If you want flash, tie two or three strands along each side of the tail and trim them just beyond the marabou tips.
  5. 5.Tie in the ribbing wire at the base of the tail if you are using one.
  6. 6.Prepare a saddle hackle by stripping the fluff from the stem. Tie it in by the tip at the base of the tail with the shiny side facing you so the barbs sweep back when palmered.
  7. 7.Strip a short piece of core bare at the end of the chenille, tie it in by the bare core at the tail base, and run the thread forward to a point two eye-widths behind the eye or right behind the bead.
  8. 8.Wind the chenille forward in touching turns, tie it off, and trim the excess.
  9. 9.Palmer the hackle forward in five to seven evenly spaced open turns, tie it off behind the eye or bead, and trim.
  10. 10.Counter-wrap the wire rib through the hackle, wiggling it as you go so it does not trap barbs, tie it off and break it with a twist.
  11. 11.Build a small neat head (or dub a short collar behind the bead), whip finish and add a drop of cement. Leave room for the head: crowding the eye is the most common bugger mistake.

From the tier

  • Russell Blessing tied it in 1967 as a hellgrammite for Susquehanna smallmouth and wanted as much movement from the hackle and tail as possible; his son told Fly Life Magazine that movement was the whole point of the fly.
  • Kelly Galloup, teaching Blessing's original, stresses leaving enough room behind the eye for a proper head; Tim Flagler strips the marabou tips and binds the butts along the shank so the body has no bump behind it.
  • Fish it any way you like: dead-drifted, swung, or stripped. In Michigan a black or olive bugger is swung or drifted for steelhead, and the chartreuse Polar Chenille version is stripped for Pere Marquette kings.

Video: How to Tie the Olive Woolly Bugger Steps summarize the Orvis/Tightline olive bugger video and the Fat Fingered Fly Tyer step-by-step in our own words; Blessing's original colours (olive chenille, black hackle, black marabou) come from the Fly Life Magazine family interview. Unconfirmed: Blessing's exact original hook and whether he used any rib are not documented on the pages fetched. Also checked against Fly Life Magazine (interview with Fred Blessing by Kirk Werner), 2022, Russell Blessing's Woolly Bugger, Fly Life Magazine, 2024, Kelly Galloup: Tying Blessing's Bugger, The Fat Fingered Fly Tyer, 2020, Woolly Bugger Fly Step-by-Step and Wikipedia, Woolly Bugger.

Materials to buy
Everything one Woolly Bugger takes, each item once: 6 items, plus 5 optional. Quantities are for a single fly. We do not sell components yet; when we do, these will link to them.

Hook and hardware

  • 4X-long streamer hook1

    size 2-12 · Dai-Riki 700 or TMC 5263

    Hook

Feathers and fur

  • Marabou blood quill1 plume

    colour to match body

    Tail

  • Saddle hackle1 feather

    black, olive grizzly, or to match

    Hackle

  • Superfine dubbingoptionala pinch

    rusty brown

    Head

Synthetics, flash and legs

  • Flashabou or Krystal Flashoptional4-6 strands

    pearl or colour-matched

    Flash

  • Chenilleabout 6 in

    medium; olive, black, purple, chartreuse, white, brown or pink

    Body

Thread and finish

  • Tying thread1 spool

    6/0 or 140 denier, to match body

    ThreadHead

  • Head cement1 drop

    Head

Other

  • Lead-free wireoptional10-15 wraps

    .020

    Weight

  • Brass or tungsten beadoptional1

    5/32 in gold

    Weight

    Alternative to lead wire.

  • Ultra Wireoptionalabout 6 in

    small, copper or gold

    Rib

Sources